Elio Sandri, Barolo Perno Riserva, 2019 CALIFORNIA COUNT One honest reminder: vermouth is

One honest reminder: vermouth is wine at heart

The Brick Kiln block sits on Bridgehampton Silt Loam with a distinctive 8-inch vein of blue-grey clay 30 inches down

a Burgundy-trained winemaker

Still relatively young

Elio Sandri, Barolo Perno Riserva, 2019 CALIFORNIA COUNT One honest reminder: vermouth isElio Sandri is one of Barolo's most coveted traditionalists, farming 7. 5 hectares at Cascina Disa in the Perno cru of Monforte d'Alba, living and making wine on site. He works the old way: fermentation in cement, long aging in enormous Slavonian botti, no fining, no filtration, sulfur only at bottling. This Perno Riserva from the celebrated 2019 vintage is Nebbiolo at its most resonant, both exuberant and austere, built for the long haul. With only a