Bartolo Mascarello, Freisa, 2011 Trestle Fix 04/30 producing Barolos with finesse

producing Barolos with finesse

Fifth Growth Pauillac at its most approachable—yet don't mistake elegance for simplicity

old-world style is on full display here

with layers of vanilla

Bartolo Mascarello, Freisa, 2011 Trestle Fix 04/30 producing Barolos with finesseFreisa is one of Piedmont's great oddball grapesa relative of Nebbiolo that's wild, a little rustic, sometimes faintly fizzy or off dry, and adored by insiders. In Bartolo Mascarello's hands it's dry, structured, and serious, made exactly like their Barolo: organic farming, native yeasts, big old casks. The 2011 has had over a decade in bottle, which is exactly what tames Freisa's youthful edge into something more harmonious and savory. A rare, back