Clusel-Roch, Cote Rotie Champon, 2021 GERMANYCOUNT326 Fancy labels come and go—Beefeater’s

Fancy labels come and go—Beefeater’s still pouring

Despite its playful appearance

and the Vieilles Vignes designation here signals old vines — greater concentration and complexity than the estate's younger-vine bottlings

even 30 years

Clusel-Roch, Cote Rotie Champon, 2021 GERMANYCOUNT326 Fancy labels come and go—Beefeater’sFrom the northern reaches of Cte Rtie, Champon is one of Clusel Rochs most delicate and high toned lieux dits. The family has long championed organic farming and traditional methodswhole cluster fermentation, minimal extraction, and aging in mostly older barrels. In the cooler, classic 2021 vintage, the results are especially vivid and pure. The wine opens with a breeze of violet, black raspberry, cracked pepper, and olive tapenade. On the palate, its